Chili Commerce

Chili Commerce

Hungary is world famous for its chili powders, which are known universally as paprika. There is an unusual museum dedicated to the history of paprika in the town of Szeged, which, with nearby kalocsa, vies for the title of paprika capital of Hungary.

   The paprika industry was transformed in 1859 when the palfy brothers of Szeged developed machine that could control the amount of capsaicin removed from dried chili pods. The machine removed the seeds and veins and then ground the pods into powder, enabling the production of a consistently mild and sweet paprika.

In 1879 the French chef Auguste Escoffier used paprika from Szeged in the kitchens of the grand hotel in Monte Carlo. Escoffier’s use of what became known as the Hungarian spice made it indispensable in the foremost kitchen of Europe.

Nowadays, paprika comes in various types including mild, sweet, rose and hot though often it is used simply to add colour to a dish. However, good-quality paprika has a subtle and mysteriously bittersweet flavour all its own.

Improving and protecting the stock
Fabian Garcia is a special name in the world of chilies. A professor at New Mexico state university, Garcia produced the first scientifically developed chili in 1894.He aimed to produce a milder fruit that was more acceptable to the general public, with a predictable pungency, size and shape. The result was the New Mexico no.9, which after its introduction in 1913, quickly became the most popular chili among commerce growers in New Mexico, until it was superseded by the New Mexico No.6 in the 1950s. The No.6 had the advantage of being only half as hot – at between 700 and 900 Scoville Heat Units (SHU, see page 28) – and producing a higher proportion of well-shaped pods without deep folds in the skin, thus making it easier to process. Before Fabien Garcia, chili production in New Mexico had been hit- and- miss after- the quality and the heat of the fruits were very variable. His efforts to create a more consistent harvest turned chili production into a major cash crop for this area.

   Work at New Mexico University has continued, with Dr. Roy Nayayama, and subsequently Dr. Paul Bosland leading the development of commerce chili varieties. With this support, the chili business in New Mexico has grown in value significantly. Only in the last five to ten years has production started to decline as the cost of labour and other factor have favoured chilies harvest in elsewhere – China, Africa and India.

  The development of chilies at New Mexico university has produce other notable achievements including the NuMex Big Jim, which is listed in the Guinness Book of the World Records as the world’s largest chili, its pods growing to lengths o over 20cm(7.8in).

  In 1999, Institut National des Appellations d’ Origine(INAO), the body responsible for the licensing and granting of Appellation d’ Origine Controlee(AOC) status, moved to protect the unique Pimente d’ Espelette(Espelette Pepper) from imported competition. This protection, also often seen on wines, protects the uniqueness of a product and, at the same time, helps to maintain its quality. Each batch must be presented for approval before it is issued with a number. If specialist regional products are to survive, they will need this kind of protection and control.

     The production of the official Espelette Pepper is now limited to just 10 communities in the Basque region of southwestern France, near Spanish border. Since 1967, a chili day has been held in Espelette – an annual celebration of a local harvest that has been grown here since Gonzalo percaztegi introduced the chili pepper in 1523.


The hottest chili
Frank Garcia of GNS spices in California. USA, developed the Red Savina habanero, which is listed in the Guinness Book of World records as the world’s hottest chili pepper.
   This chili variety was discovered when pickers spotted a few red pots in a field of orange habaneros. The fruit was saved, and the plants grown from the original were rated at a blistering 577,000 scoville Heat Units in 1994.


Into the future
We are currently in a second boom for chilies. The first was sparked by their discovery and introduction to the west, the second has been encourage by cheaper travelling  cost that enable chili lovers to sample foreign delights and take them back home. We can witness this in supermarkets, which display an increased availability of exotic products due to the growing interest in regional cooking styles. A wed search will produce any number of sites with information on how to grow chilies and has made chili products, previously unheard of outside their native areas, available to a keen world market. Chili festivals are becoming increasingly popular around the world, with annual showcases in the USA, Canada, UK, Australia, France and South Africa growing from strength to strength.
  The chili has changed from an exotic rarity to a common ingredient in many kitchens. More and more people are enjoying the many varieties that are available, each of which has its own distinctive characteristics.

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